| From
the Birmingham News
July 22, 2003
By Kathy Seale
Florence-stiltskin
When
Erika Rosenberg spied a spinning wheel 14 years ago at a New Orleans
shop, she didn't know how to spin fiber and couldn't afford the
wheel's $575 price tag.
She
took it home anyway.
"I
can remember the fear in my heart when I bought it," says Rosenberg.
Then a pregnant mother of three, her husband was a recent medical
school graduate in the midst of a low-paid fellowship. "But
something in me told me I should do it. I knew it was going to change
my life."
It
did. Now five contract knitters turn the fiber Rosenberg spins on
that wheel into scarves, baby blankets and sweaters that sell for
as much as $1,000 in high-end stores such as Ron Herman in Los Angeles
and Jeffrey New York.
The
raw material for those toney togs comes from the herd of 17 alpacas
Rosenberg keeps on her bucolic 55-acre farm near Florence.
She
broke into the fashion big time last fall when she approached a
buyer at Barney's New York.
"Before
I got back from the trip, I had an order for scarves," she
says.
When
Florence designer Natalie Chanin of Project Alabama read about Rosenberg's
business in the TimesDaily, she called Rosenberg and suggested a
collaboration Rosenberg's sweaters embellished with Chanin's signature
quilted, recycled T-shirt fabric.
A
hit in Paris:
"She took them to Paris and we've been working nonstop
since," Rosenberg says.
Chanin's
collaborations, which have included eveningwear designer Fernando
Sanchez and artist Lola Schnabel, typically last one season. The
one with Rosenberg could be different.
"I
think the collaboration with Erika probably is going to remain steadfast,"
Chanin says by phone from her office in Florence. "I think
it's developed into a more long-term relationship."
Their
next venture includes hand-spun cotton, which they plan to use for
knitted or crocheted garments.
Rosenberg
began spinning with fur from sheep and angora rabbits. She found
the sheep wool too coarse, and while the rabbit fur was soft, the
animals yielded precious few ounces and were tedious to cut.
"My
whole life was spent shearing those beasts," she says with
a grin.
When
she moved from Seattle to Florence nine years ago, she bought her
first alpaca. The soft, crimpy-haired animals, which are native
to Peru, Chile and Bolivia, yield 4 to 8 pounds of fiber each per
year. They're also relatively easy to shear.
"It's
just like cutting your kid's hair," says the tall, slender
brunette.
Alpaca
plus angora:
She sends the shorn fiber to Ohio for processing, where they clean
it and mix it with angora. The result is a blend of 70 percent alpaca
and 30 percent angora.
On
a visit to her barn, Rosenberg points out the 10-year-old white
male alpaca named for the man who helped her turn her hobby into
a business.
"This
is my very first stud, Conrad," Rosenberg says. "We named
him after our tax attorney."
Rosenberg
then calls to the other males.
"Hey boys! Come here Broccoli," she says, but a brown-haired,
1-year-old doesn't budge.
"Alpacas
just don't care for people," she says. They're pricey, too.
Females typically cost $5,000 to $20,000 and males cost $1,000 to
$10,000.
The
herd grazes for most of their food, but Rosenberg supplements with
five, 50-pound bags of Alpaca pellets per week. The bags cost $10
each.
After
leaving the barn, Rosenberg dips her toes into the L-shaped pool
behind their white-columned, two-story brick home. She doesn't have
much time for swimming. In addition to her cardiologist husband
and four teenagers, ages 14 to 19, she takes care of the alpacas
as well as chickens, pigs, peacocks, horses, dogs and cats and mows
the pastures.
"I
keep the grass low to keep it out of the fiber," she says.
She
also manages to spin up to six hours a day.
"It's
just such a beautiful thing to do," she says.
After
spinning a bobbin-full (about 4 ounces), she soaks the fiber overnight
in hot water, then hangs it over a tub in the guest bathroom to
dry. After it dries, she loads it onto a "swift," an expandable
round wooden gadget which holds the fiber while she hand-cranks
it into a ball of yarn. Next, it goes to the knitters.
The
considerable time and effort which goes into her hand-made creations
justifies the price tags, she says.
"People
say, `I could just go to Wal-Mart and buy a sweater,'" she
says. "Well, it takes a really long time to do this."
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